A thousand years ago, in the darkest days of the Dark Ages, people undertook trips of unspeakable duration and hardship, for the purpose of religious penance, indulgences and salvation. From every part of Europe, they hiked through the treacherous passes of the Pyrennes, to join the throng heading west through northern Spain on the
Camino de Santiago (The Way of Saint James) to the Galician cathedral where the remains of that apostle were believed to rest. Proctor in Spain is retracing parts of "The Camino."
In 1020, construction of the Castillo (Castle) Loarre began on the top of a rocky crag in at the foothills of the Pyrenees, to defend the Christian north from the Moors. We enjoyed a private, guided tour of Loarre in driving sleet and wet snow yesterday.
An excursion to historic, culturally rich northern Spain in February is a risk, and the truth is that we're encountering persistent cold rain and lousy weather. Our young pilgrims, however, are resilient and positive. The castle tour included the longest five minutes of my life, listening to our intrepid guide--Roberto--explain the significance of the fortification in a virtual wind tunnel.
Next, we gathered in a frigid, Romanesque chapel, contemplating the devotion of knights and penitents (with whom I easily identified.)
The story of this trip is the buoyant spirits of eleven kids who could easily be whining and complaining about discomforts. But no. When--while tracing El Camino de Santiago--Hilary Duff's Why Not? came on the radio in Derek's car, we all had to pull over for a little dancing....
Later in the afternoon, we arrived at Sos del Rey Católico. This remote, hilltop warren of twisting little streets was known only as Sos when Ferdinand II of Aragon was born there in 1452. But as husband of Isabella, and King of Castille, he became one of history's pivotal figures, and the town was named "...of the Catholic King" about 100 years ago. The maze of streets is enchanting.
After a night's rest at the local hostal, we gather for breakfast, and Will's researched report on the town, and the church we are about to explore.
Derek has called the local cura to arrange for a guided tour of the Church of Saint Stephen, and the extraordinary, ancient crypt below.
It's cold in the church, and it is snowing as we leave Sos for the Cantabrian coastal city of San Sebastian. No complaints. Settled into a comfortable hostal in San Sebastian, we do some exploring before the rain and wind drive us back inside. Paul is practicing some kind of martial art on Trenny.
Six of our valiant pilgrims, from left: Taylre, Linsley, Spencer, Paul, Will and Trenny.
